Three Counties Perry
Article from Slow
Food.
Perry is a little-known traditional English drink made from the
fermented juice of perry pears, small, bitter fruits with such a
high level of astringent tannins that they are almost impossible to
eat raw.

Perry has been made in Southern England for centuries, and the
name "perry" once referred to all wild pear trees as well as to the
beverage. The trees bear viable fruit only after a few decades of
growth and the best can be over a century old. The ancient perry
orchard is a classic part of the British landscape and its tall,
majestic trees provide the basis for an important ecosystem,
considered a unique habitat by British naturalists. There are over
100 different varieties of perry pears, but many varieties only
have a few remaining specimens and are in danger of disappearing
completely. Perry, like cider, was once made on the farm for the
farmer's family and workers and is not suited to large-scale
production, as the production of each batch varies greatly with the
mixture of pear varieties used.
The method for producing perry is the same as that of producing
hard cider. The fruit is harvested, milled to a pulp, and pressed
to extract the juice, which is then fermented: some perry undergoes
a second inbottle fermentation to make a sparkling beverage. Almost
all British perry is produced in the Three-Counties area of
Herefordshire, Worcestershire and Gloucestershire, and is consumed
almost exclusively in the region of production. It is a classic
accompaniment to traditional British cheeses such as Single and
Double Gloucester, Cheshire, and Lancashire. Real perry contains no
additives. It can be dry, medium or sweet in taste, and still or
sparkling. The quality can vary from "rough" like scrumpy hard
cider to an almost wine-like drink. The flavour of farm made
perries is variable: they may be fermented to dryness but will
retain a distinct pear aroma.
THE PRESIDIUM:
Under present market conditions the remaining perry producers
are struggling: few of them make a living from producing only
perry, and many of them produce it in their spare time simply
because of their love of their product and its heritage. There is
little or no marketing of perry and the tiny local market continues
to diminish year after year. There is now increased awareness
amongst the producers of the need for high quality standards if
perry is to be promoted among attentive consumers. The Three
Counties Perry Presidium is working to raise awareness of
high-quality perry made from the bitter perry pears, not from
fleshy cooking or eating pears. The Presidium is also working to
establish guidelines for a select group of producers to stabilize
quality, while retaining the natural variety of a product made from
various perry pear varieties. The Presidium producers are working
to define the full list of the pear varieties traditionally used
for perry production.
In 2006, presidium producers drafted a production protocol to
define rules for growing and harvesting pears and producing
perry.